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[marinetech]

Here are MY rules:

1) Substance ONLY. I don't want to hear about what some guy/girl does, I want to know what you do. Do you flip a coin, do you go against the table, do you bet FLD/OLD? I know, we all know that NO SYSTEM can work ALL the time. But, for the majority, what serves you best?

2) If you have certain triggers, let's here about them. Don't tell me some hocus-pocus because your post will get deleted.

3) Contribute to the thread with what I asked or simply don't post, it's that simple. if you hate the idea, great, I will talk to myself!

I have went back and forth myself from time to time but the majority of the time, pit boss's method served me well. Lately, I tend to follow the table. If I see 2x2, 2-1, 3-1, etc, I tend to wait for that trigger and jump on. It's been ok. Some great days, some real ugly ones as well.......

[21 Aces]

General Play Strategy
- Bank/ Player stronger in shoe?  Bank/ Player strength trend of late?  One side might start strong and then fade or retain that strength throughout the entire shoe.

- Established progression?  Long dragon, jumping shoe, 2's/ 3's/ 4's, one or two on one side/ coming down on the other, complete chaos?  How long will the progression continue before a kick out or has it just kicked out.  Most every progression will kick out at some point then fall back into line so if you miss the start and it's been going a while expect a kick out soon.

- Chop or continue the majority of time on Natural 8's/ 9's for each side,  ties, animals.  Looking for those trends to continue or even too one sided maybe revert.  For example, ties are continuing 4 out of 6 times and another ties comes up, I would have a bias on this next tie to continue.

- Win ratio's.  On side getting killed repeatedly or A 9 vs. 8 or 8 vs. 7 or 7 vs. 6 or one side winning, but the other side still very strong.  There are times where one side is laying up small time and time again and then the odds of a long dragon go up.

- Long dragons stopping short - Often 3, 4, 5, or 6 max for a side and then chop or max overall for both sides.  Some shoes have a rule where only a short number of consecutive in a row play out.  Not sure why 5 and 6 are so common on that.


All this is a lot to watch, but that is what I do.  I am very close to just going back to a simple mechanical system where I reset the count into jumping shoe, 2's/ 3's/ 4's or other progressions to not be triggering against.  For example if a long dragon kicks into 2's or 3's you want to be aligned with not betting opposite.


BUT the most important factor for me in consistent win and win backs is to be at a table with strong players.  If I look at above and think Bank and strong players think Bank then I have more confidence.  If they think Bank with their max bet then I have even more confidence.  These are players that I see doing well that tend to not bet/ high payout bet only or bet small when not confident and then go bigger when they have a strong view.  These professional drivers are not correct 100% of the time, but demonstrate win and I would rather play with as many as possible.
- Not sure they go high payout or don't bet.
- Confident they go 1-5 units +.
- Very confident they go 20-30 units +.




Select Play Strategy #1
If I were to select on play and one play only, it would be to look for jumping shoe progressions, wait for two in a row and bet chop.  For example:

PBPBPB
           B

Bet Player


PBPBPBPBP
                 P

Bet Bank

And that is it.  It jumps again look for two in a row.  Move on to another shoe that is doing it.  At some point every jumping shoe kicks out into another progression, but I think this select play wins more often than not.  You could set a certain minimum number of jumps before validating the chop of two in a row.



Select Play Strategy #2
Another idea I have is to look for what I have found to be high payout bet triggers and get in their as strong as I can with that and play as smart on Bank/ Player to finance it.  If the trigger doesn't hit within a certain number of hands, the likelihood of a high payout bet starts at that time decreases substantially.  I can not remember how many times I give up to early only for a high payout bet to hit a few hands later.


Win Back
If you go down, from my experience, a successful win back typically does not involve bigger bets quickly.  Take a break, settle down, find a decent shoe (all shoes are more or less the same stuff) with strong players.  Do your best to win as many of the next few bets as possible.  If you manage to win back some, you can increase bet size.  3 steps forward 2 back enough times will have you on your way.  You can skip a lot of hand and still do it.  Usually, a skilled player can win back faster than they think.  Vengeance bets like those in trading are the fastest way to transfer your bank.  A high payout bet win or two doesn't hurt.

[HunchBacShrimp]

FLD has served me well in the past. Always seemed to be a long streak or large block of short streaks to either put me over the top or pull me out of a draw down. So much so that I can't bring myself to bet OLD, even though I want to to increase my unit size and reduce my action by 50%.

Presently, I'm capturing patterns. Not exactly to the nth degree, but I'm on all the single chops, doubles, sleepers, any repeating pattern between B and P and I'm on it. 'Course I encounter plenty of consecutive losses when nothin develops. I've come out 20u ahead flat betting 40 bets in a shoe and I've fell behind 20 units flat betting 40 bets in a shoe.

It all seems the same to me. It's all about

how you handle your losses.

HBS

[gr8player]

It all seems the same to me. It's all about

how you handle your losses.

HBS

Correct.  This game certainly is "all about how you handle your losses". 

Further, it's also about how you limit them, as well.  (Read: "limit" = minimalizing the losing streaks and/or clusters)  My answer to that dilemma?:

"Virtual losses".  I've droned on and on about the inherent advantages, no sense in expounding further herein.  Those that utilize this strategy already are well-aware.....

[BorisBJ21]

I have a question for all you people who play Baccarat on a frequent basis.
I believe it was Thorpe (or was it Griffin?) who came up with a card count method for Baccarat - one count for BANKER and one count for PLAYER. 
Because the casino allows the use of scorecards how about two players playing together; one counting for BANK and one counting for PLAYER, writing the count values down on the scorecard.  Then as we near the end of the shoe, consulting those counts (as a consensus) could give us a stronger indication of how to place a bet.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Curiously,
  Boris

[spartakookie]

Hi Boris,

People have done research on card counting before and conclude that it has much less effective on indicate it will lean to banker or player.

Cheers,
SK

[MarkTeruya]

Baccarat uncountable, end of

[21 Aces]

I have a question for all you people who play Baccarat on a frequent basis.
I believe it was Thorpe (or was it Griffin?) who came up with a card count method for Baccarat - one count for BANKER and one count for PLAYER. 
Because the casino allows the use of scorecards how about two players playing together; one counting for BANK and one counting for PLAYER, writing the count values down on the scorecard.  Then as we near the end of the shoe, consulting those counts (as a consensus) could give us a stronger indication of how to place a bet.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Curiously,
  Boris

There is so much counting and tracking that can be done on the major and derived roads.  If players are doing a shoe card count they are doing an expert job of concealing it or I would say near nobody is doing it.