Good Evening, I am new to the forum and relatively new to roulette, looking
for some staking advice for a method which I have been testing which bets
nine numbers at a time. In testing live wheel and checking through previous
live spin data, once triggered it seems to generally hit a winner inside six spins (ish),
seen it go to ten but this appears rare. I know it is possible to go a lot higher...
My question is how do I determine a progression, and how high in steps do
I go? Is it best to not go to high, and chalk it up as a loss, or go very high in
steps and hope a bigger loss will be rare?
Method is very very difficult to track, so simple as possible staking would be
best, to get on between spins.
Any advice welcome, Thank You.

9 numbers call for ATILA.

I suggest you try the reversed ATILA where you rise +1 on only one of the 9 numbers on a win, and hold the bet until a new hit, after which you rise +1 on a second single number, holding the bet until another hit...

You reset when a hit brings your balance to a new high (or break even).

---

The sequence goes like this:

1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1
hit
2.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1
hit
2.2.1.1.1.1.1.1.1
hit
2.2.2.1.1.1.1.1.1
hit
2.2.2.2.1.1.1.1.1
hit
2.2.2.2.2.1.1.1.1
hit
2.2.2.2.2.2.1.1.1
hit
2.2.2.2.2.2.2.1.1
hit
2.2.2.2.2.2.2.2.1
hit
2.2.2.2.2.2.2.2.2
hit
3.2.2.2.2.2.2.2.2
hit
3.3.2.2.2.2.2.2.2
hit
3.3.3.2.2.2.2.2.2
hit
3.3.3.3.2.2.2.2.2

and so on. Rising +1 on one number at a time.

Notice the ATILA is based on the cyclical nature of the win/lose streaks.

It aims to rise the bets slowly in order to take advantage of the natural clumping of wins when they come, rather than betting the farm on a single spin.

---

After a hit, you can "level" your bets down by keeping an eye on the amount needed to break even.

i.e. if after your last hit your deficit is -24, you can go back to:

1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1

Since one hit with 1 unit would recover, and the whole idea is to keep your bets low.

---

Likewise, if after last hit you are at -45, you can go back to:

2.2.2.2.2.2.2.2.2

and so on.

Always going back to the very least unit exposed as needed to break even.

One last tip on this. Another option for a rule of thumb to reset back is to simply use the payout (multiplying * 36).

i.e. after a hit, you check the current amount of deficit from last high and use:

1-36 = 1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1
37-72 = 2.2.2.2.2.2.2.2.2
73-108 = 3.3.3.3.3.3.3.3.3
109-144 = 4.4.4.4.4.4.4.4.4
145-180 = 5.5.5.5.5.5.5.5.5

and so on.

It doesn't always recover in full, but the goal with the ATILA isn't to recover everything in one hit as much as keeping exposure low.

Good Afternoon, Thank You for taking the time to reply, it
is appreciated. I will try the progression and see how it goes,
in practice play. Not sure how I will choose which numbers to
raise stake on first.
One thing I wonder is, with this type of method, what should
be a realistic target/loss for a session?

Thanks Again for your help.

If anyone else has any advice, please post, Thank You.

Hi, Thank You. What is the 1-2?

The best advice  is  to read  a book on money management   by some good gambling authors.




ND

I found Brett Mortons book a good read for that.

Quote from: Slim on January 14, 2014, 11:06:01 PM

Method is very very difficult to track, so simple as possible staking would be
best, to get on between spins.
Any advice welcome, Thank You.

You will find that betting any nine random numbers will have EXACTLY the same results after a large sample of spins.

Quote from: Let Me Win on January 17, 2014, 01:56:48 AM



You will find that betting any nine random numbers will have EXACTLY the same results after a large sample of spins.

Good Morning, Thank You for your reply. Do you mean that betting
nine numbers will end badly whatever selections are made eventually?

Numbers I have been testing on live wheel results have so far been
good. Using live rather than RNG, as I don't believe this will work on RNG.
Being a relative newbie I find it hard to get my head around
test results because I don't really see what they prove. I've tested
more numbers than I would actually play (for real) in probably six months.
It has not broken bank once, yet I know first time I play it for real the wrong
run of numbers and it will have failed...

Any opinions, positive or negative are welcome.


Thank You.

Quote from: Marshall Bing Bell on January 17, 2014, 02:58:59 AM
The Old 1-2


Play #9 in mini games of 4 bets max, and end the mini game on any win.

Start betting 1 unit. If you get a win on spin 1, 2, or 3 end the game and start a new mini game with 2 units.

Now start betting 2 units. If you get a win on spin 1, 2, or 3 end the game and start a new mini game with 2 units.

Keep betting 2 units until you get a lost mini game (4 losing bets) then start betting 1 unit again.

So,
After any 4 bet loss always start the next mini game with 1 unit.

&,
After any win always start the next mini game with 2 units.


If any game breaks even (a win on 4^th bet) then start the next mini game from the same unit size as the previous.

If any 2 games in a row breaks even (a win on 4^th bet twice in a row) then start the next mini game from the other unit size as the previous.

So,
If betting 1 unit and break even twice in a row start next mini game with 2 units.

&,
If betting 2 units and break even twice in a row start next mini game with 1 unit.

Hi, Thank You for the explanation, I will give this a go.

Thank You.

 
Slim my advice is to forget everything and start from scratch.
But you start from the right point.

You have to understand that almost 99% of all gamblers come up with strategy's and no one hold up when it boils down to money management.
So i argue and my friendly advice is that you start out first how to handle your money, before you pick any strategy to play.

For example with John Patrick style.
Lets say you have a master bankroll with 3K.
Then you split it into three and bring 1K to the casino.

Now you might want to have money for 5 sessions and that would be 200 each.
But in reality you would only try to win two sessions out of three.

Now you have your 200 with 20% win goal - that is reasonable and a loss limit with 50%.
In reality so does this mean you can only play with and lose 100.

This determine what kind of unit size you should use.
Also rule out all fuzzy strategy's and you have to stick to the cruel world based upon this money management principals.

Assume you lose two sessions, that is 200 and you still have 200 left.
This make you feel strong and not as a loser as you bring money back home with out getting a wipe out.

This way you can see the limits of what kind of strategy to use.
Here you can see how you handle your money and sessions rule out any fuzzy game plan.

This should be your engine room when developing methods.
I have further more information about this subject, for example how to avoid the 20/100 flaw.

You have to have a way to capitalize above 20% win goal to cut it in the long run.
This is how i see things and getting the edge over negative expectation.

Most experience players would use a  low win target, lets say 20% ...
Lets say the buy in is 200 and loss limit 50% or 100.
Then we get what i call the 20/100 flaw.

You have to win 5 times in a row to reach 100 and then you are just even.
Lets say you get busted after that, then you have to start all over again.
Then comes recovery progression to recoup and assume you get busted again, then you have gamblers ruin.

This means that low win targets and loss limits does not give you an edge, by it self.
But if we aim to win more when we are ahead, try to capitalize when we are in strike mood, then we might get an edge over the game.

Lets say i play one week or 5 days.
+20 +20 +20 +20 +20 up +100 if i lose once i give it all back and might use a recovery progression and maybe end up with gamblers ruin.

But if my winnings look like this.
+40 +30 +50 +20 +30 up +170 if i lose a week playing i am still up +70 overall.

This is why i like Brett Morton's Money Management and John Patrick's Money Management.
They capitalize above fixating win targets with built in accumulations strategy's, pushing for more.
In the end that give you some kind of edge over the 20/100 flaw.

If you want so can i write about Brett Morton's excellent money management method.

 
PROGRESS UP THE LADDER - PLAY AND PUSH OR FALL INTO SAFETY NETS


Fund management - targets ...
It should be the core how to deal with your play during sessions.

This method have a lot of fences to avoid you losing control.
As you can see with the image so do you always fight against the casinos wall of money.
Symbolic for the negative expectation against you.

Now first you have to set Loss limit and win goal.
Lets say loss limit 100 and win goal 20 or happy point, the amount of money that would make you happy to go home with.

100 LL
20 HP

Now lets assume you reach your win goal with 20% and want to continue to push for more, then you don't want to lose it all back, from this point you will always walk home as a winner.
So you have to set a bottom line target, the amount of money you can not touch after reaching your win goal.
This is the first safety net or fence.
BTL = Bottom Line Traget.

100 LL
10 BTL
20 HP

Now you can see we set the bottom line target at 10 and it could be 5.
Now let assume you play with 1 Euro chips or unit size, then it means you have 10 units left to operate with to win more to reach next win target, gold top.
We can set the gold top at 30.

100 LL
10 BTL
20 HP
30 GT

Lets say you are in strike mood and reach your second win target, then you might want to aim for jackpot.
To day is your day.
Then Happy point gets to be your second safety net or fence and you can not lose money below it.
Then you have 10 units to push for more.

This is the principals.
You can set any numbers as loss limit and win targets.

100 LL
10 BTL
20 HP
30 GT
?? JP

Cheers

Hi Sputnik, Thank you for the posts, fantastic stuff.
Going to see if I can get those books.
Thank You for your help.

Slim....sputniks last post is from Brett Morton, I spoke about.